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| 360° view just south of Radicofane |
Bus to San Quirico d'Orcia
Our taxi dropped us off about 2 blocks from our hotel, La Locanda Del Sorriso in San Quirico d'Orcia.
did laundry, prepped for the next phase (pic of charcuterie) stayed at La Locanda Del Sorriso
Day 1: San Quirico d'Orcia to Galina
Our first day of walking! This was scheduled to be 10.5 miles, and we knew from research that there was really only one town, Bagno Vignoni, along the way, where we stopped for a quick apple and some water. Otherwise, it was country gravel roads with an occasional car or tractor passing us. We saw perhaps four other walkers, all heading north (the Via Francigena can be traveled either direction). We wound our way through beautiful pastures and an occasional water crossing, but no coffee bar or even a bench to sit on. For a lunch break we sat on a private stone gate while we munched on a sandwich and an apple. We watched ants converge on the crumbs and haul away what seemed like an impossibly large piece of bread, then eventually they were collaborating, with as many as ten ants in on the move. Why can't we all work together like that?
Eventually we found ourselves on the doorstep of our stop for the night, Agriturismo Passalacqua. While there was a car in the garage, we couldn't find anyone to check us in, and eventually I called the number associated with the reservation. With my limited Italian and even less English from the person answering, I found out that this was not Elena, our host, but Elena's mamma, and we should 'took took, took took'. Later I found out this meant 'knock, knock' on the door. Elena was cleaning and did not hear our 'took took', but no worries. Eventually we were given a brief tour of the grounds of the 700-year-old house formerly owned by one of Siena's richer families, and directed to our apartment, looking out over the Tuscan country - simply stunning. After a delicious home made meal of potato and pumpkin soup, sausages, and a tomato, onion and lima bean salad, we made our way to our room for the night.
11.6 miles, 31,837 steps, 61 floors climbed (per my iPhone, and all figures are total for the day, not just the walk between cities)
Day 2: Galina to Radicofane
After a delightful home made breakfast, we set out walking between fields, and the first structure we came upon was a ruined Romanesque church. A display indicate this was Pieve di San Pellegrino alle Briccole, from about the year 1000. Yeah, 1000. It served as a vital hospital and hospice for medieval pilgrims. The first time this route was documented was by Sigeric the Serious (gotta love that nickname), the Archbishop of Canterbury. In 990 AD, Sigeric journeyed from Canterbury to Rome to receive his pallium (an ecclesiastical cloak representing his authority) from Pope John XV. His journey is historically significant because he (or a companion) meticulously documented the 79 stages of his return trip. This diary provided the primary blueprint for the Via Francigena. Whoa.
We crossed streams back and forth - if the water was higher some may have been an issue. This was going to be a 'shorter' day, and after talking with Elena at breakfast, we opted to add a side trip into Bagni San Filippo - just 3 miles, no big deal. Up. On a road with no shoulder and crazy Italian drivers. But what a wonderful village, in the midst of a lush forest, and a landscape of white limestone formations, small waterfalls and hot pools where you can bathe. Or take a selfie. And watch other tourists just change out in the open.
Most hikers will walk into the village of Radicofane...but because of where we were booked we were just short of that, at Agriturismo La Selvella. Super quaint, adorable room with chairs outside the door. It was amazing to sit in the sun and relax. There was no other restaurant anywhere close, and dinner was at 8 and pretty expensive, so we opted to bring meat and cheese and buy a carafe of wine, enjoying our goods on the patio watching the sun ease into the hills. We knew our next day was going to be long, so early to bed once again.
10.9 miles, 29,879 steps, 41 floors
Day 3: Radicofane to Acquapedente
After a delightful breakfast that looked like it was for about 400 people, we headed out to first climb the hill Radicofane, which we could see from the road as we set out. After a mile or so along the road, we cut over to walk through farmer fields as well as some wooded areas, until we emerged to a road and the final climb to the town. Amazing views, and we didn't make the final climb to see all of the fortress as this was going to be a long day already.
Exiting the town, we descended onto more gravel roads, which we would be on for most of the day. On one stretch, there was a panoramic view - stunning really - except for the 40-50 mph winds, which we had to fight for at least an hour. Finally descending a bit with some protection from the wind, we again made due for a rest spot with the edge of a bridge. Carrying on, passing sheep and their protectors (why are all of the sheep dogs white?), we ended up in Ponte a Rigo, where we saw a sign for food. Nope. At least there was a bus stop, where we rested and shared a protein bar and another apple. Only a few more miles to Acquapendente.
After winding through fields and then coming up on the final hill to Acquapendente. That last mile took almost an hour, pure torture at the end of a long day. At least it was in the shade. We eventually descended into the city center, and oh man that first spritz was amazing. We were checked into our hotel, Albergo Toscana, by the owner, a lovely man who we both agreed looked like an Italian Jiminy Glick. The hotel was also a restaurant, booked for the night, so we enjoyed snacks in the town square. Eventually we made our way to the Monkey Bar, an 'American Bar'. We asked the owner why it was 'American', and he said because he spoke English. 😅 It turns out it was Italy's Labor Day, celebrating commemorating the social and economic achievements of the labor movement. Our lesson of the day - pay attention to national and local holidays when you travel!
17.3 miles, 45,677 steps, 105 floors
Day 4: Acquapendente to Bolsena
As soon as we set out we encountered a couple of churches, always a favorite to start off the day! I so enjoyed the art of this area that featured a lot of tile, and especially blue tile. So beautiful!
We exited the main village of Acquapendente to the suburbs, then eventually rolling hills of farms. Received a very nice wave from a farmer. Eventually we came upon San Lorenzo Nuovo, a lovely town and our first chance the entire walk to have a morning break at a coffee shop! I ordered mostly in Italian and mostly successfully. This was also our first glance at Lake Bolsena, the largest volcanic lake in Europe. I wanted to compare it to Mille Lacs (a large lake in central Minnesota) - and while they are both large freshwater bodies, they differ fundamentally in origin, scale, and primary appeal. Lake Bolsena is a deep volcanic caldera lake at 28,000 acres and it's maximum depth is 495 feet, while Mille Lacs Lake is a vast, shallow glacial lake, over 132,000 acres and a maximum depth of 28 feet.
We again wound our way through forest trails, farmer fields, and every time we thought we were making our way down towards the lake, we'd have a climb to the next field. We saw so many variations on the Via Francigena markings, which is so different from the Camino! Eventually into the center of town, where there was a Fish Festival! We shared some paella and frites, and once again, beer and spritz to the rescue!
We continued down the main street to our hotel, the Hotel Royal, right across from the lake! I kept thinking we were in the wrong place. We strolled a long the shoreline lined with coarse black sand, enjoyed a pizza for 7€ (what?!), and an entire party's worth of snacks. Seriously, even if you order a beer they give you at least a bowl of chips but this place offered a smorgasbord. We returned to the hotel to treat my blisters (yep) and shower. We could see the sunset across the lake from our room!
15.3 miles, 40,646 steps, 41 floors
Day 5: Bolsena to Montefiascone
After taking care of my blisters for the day, we headed to breakfast, where I was feeling sorry for myself. Once again, my Bible in a year assignment was spot on and reminded me about the mysteries and miracles on our journey. That day's reading included Psalm 23, and I was reminded that I shall not want. Self pity session over.
We said goodbye to Lake Bolsena and made our way through the medieval streets of the village, finding the Basilica di Santa Cristina, famous for the Eucharistic Miracle and its early Christian catacombs. In 1263, a priest doubting the Real Presence saw the consecrated Host allegedly secrete drops of blood. This event inspired the Feast of Corpus Christi and is famously immortalized by Raphael in his Vatican fresco, The Mass at Bolsena.
Eventually we were on a path at the back fence of the houses lining the hills around the lake, and started to meet runners going the opposite way. There were at least a thousand runners and walkers and puppies, as it was a 'walk marathon' as part of the Fish Festival. They were all taunting me with their hiking poles, which I should have brought with me or purchased in Florence. Once we exited the dense tree covered forest, we made our way along fields, and eventually a gravel road the let up to Montefiascone. And up and up and up. Once we finally reached a break in the climbing, we were greeted with a glorious panoramic view, overlooking the Valle Perlata (Pearled Valley), One more descent before the final climb into the old city center, with our hotel about 100 feet from the main square. After checking in to our room at the Hotel Urbano V, we walked to the square to grab a bit to eat, where you have to strategically place your chair because of the steep hills.
Montefiascone is officially the start of the last 100km, where pilgrims can qualify for the Testimonium (100km walking or 200km biking), so we started to see signs referencing the 100km marker.
After enjoying a small charcuterie board, we walked through the town, visiting Cathedral of Santa Margherita, one of the most important churches in the area, and has one of the largest domes in Italy at 27m. It was stunning, and we both sat for a while taking in all of the beauty. We made our way back through the main square, and instead of waiting for restaurants to open, we opted for two pieces of pizza with extra sauce. The server was so confused why I wanted extra sauce. 😕
12 miles, 33,118 steps, 74 floors
Day 6: Montefiascone to Viterbo
After a small breakfast, we headed out and started stretching in the main square. We met three men from Oregon obviously heading out for the walk, and these were the first Americans we talked to during our walk. Since Montefiascone is the official start of the 100km we honestly expected to see more.
As we left the city, it was a nice gentle grade down, and I just zig zagged if needed to avoid irritating my blisters, which always make their home at the top of my toes. We encountered our first official roman roads, and it was just amazing how uniform they are even after centuries of use. We saw so many poppies, it just brightens the mood!
Outside of Viterbo there are another set of thermal springs, this time more formal, in basins lined with cement. We both paid to go in, but I passed as would have been at risk of infection with blisters.
We continued into an industrial area at the edge to the city - a lot of 'big box' stores - all that was missing was an Ikea. We saw some different Via Francigena signage - cool metal designs on the light posts. As we got into the heart of the city - that's when the signage stopped, and we had to basically risk our lives navigating through the streets - several roundabouts and not many pedestrian crossings. Found our hotel, Hotel Tuscia which was indeed on the Via Francigena but probably the least 'nice' of the ones we'd had so far. After chatting with the owners, we were off to find a laundromat. After a 20 minute walk and finding a 'dry cleaner' vs self service laundry - we searched again and finally found one, basically sitting comatose while the clothes did their thing. It was frustrating there wasn't a handy pub next door.
Once we returned our clean clothes to the hotel, we had to find dinner, which we thought would be easier in a larger town like Viterbo. Nope. After searching online, we found a place that said it was open at 6, and made our way there. The owner was there and he said, Oh no, we open at 7, but go ahead and have a seat and have some wine. Normally we'd accept that offer, but we really needed some food. Eventually we found a Turkish fast food place, got a giant middle eastern chicken burrito thing and a small box of wine and enjoyed our feast on a balcony as it started to sprinkle. We both agreed we don't like navigating through the really large cities - so we didn't enjoy Viterbo (dubbed 'Viterrible' from now on). Rain was forecast for the next few days, so we knew we had to stay positive!
13.3 miles, 35,658 steps, 18 floors
Day 7: Viterbo to Vetralla
We awoke to a gentle rain, which ended up stopping before we needed to head out. Whew. After a quick stop in a nearby church to pray for our day, we reached the Porta Romana. This was the Roman gate to the city, an UNISCO site, it was clear this was once a very important city. We made our way to the edge of the city, climbing through neighborhoods, up and up, and finally into a wooded area. The rain threatened all day, and the wind would pick up and the sky would get dark, so we'd put our raincoats on. Then sunny skies, raincoats off. After about 2.5 hours, we stopped for a coffee and a treat in San Martino al Aimino. We continued to climb through rural roads, winding up and up. Seriously, how much higher could we go?
Just before the road to our hotel, we came upon Chiesa di Santa Maria in Foro Cassio. Built over the remains of the ancient Roman settlement Forum Cassii, this medieval complex dates back to the 10th century and features stunning, layered frescoes inside. It was another one of the stops the Archbishop of Canterbury made during his historic pilgrimage to Rome.
After checking into our hotel, Antica Locanda della Via Francigena, about 3/4 mile from the town, we decided not to walk to the town, than have to walk back after dinner. So, we rested, snoozed until the on site restaurant opened at 7:30. Although this restaurant specialized in MEAT - like huge cuts that would feed a family of five, we splurged on two hand made pasta dishes that were stunning! I had the Lombrichelli with truffles, Tim had the Ravioli. Wow. Sleep came pretty easy.
12.3 miles, 33,994 steps, 72 floors
Day 8: Vetralla to Sutri
Once again we awoke to a light rain that ended before we had to head out. We made our way from our hotel to the town of Vetralla, stopped at a market to pick up a sandwich and apples for the long day, in case we couldn't find anywhere to stop for lunch. On the other side of Vetralla we entered a forested park area, where the trail eventually became quite muddy but definitely navigable. We met a nice man from the Netherlands, Peter Buus, who had started this walk (he has been on several Caminos) from Monaco. He was using a guidebook only for his navigation (we were using the Camino Ninja app), and was quite tall so a bit quicker than us. We lost sight of him until he came to a fork in the trail that was unclear. He waited for us and said, "I need your app". We had a great chat with him, and even stopped for a coffee together. He had recently sold his event planning business to a company in Des Moines, and was taking these walks to figure out what was next for him.
We continued through several miles of hazelnut groves, where there are several Etruscan ruins including two towers. We then came up on the town of Capranica, where we stopped and ate our sandwich. We were hoping for a spot to sit and enjoy a beer, but no luck. However, the town was so quaint, by now we could recognize the classic medieval city atop a hill, with alleys so steep and narrow! It was amazing to see how they built the different homes, all perched on an ancient volcanic mountains. And just like every other day on the walk, when we hike up, we need to go back down.
We entered another forest trail, this time along a creek bed. Due to the rain overnight, it could be quite muddy and treacherous, but slow and steady wins the race. The crazy thing is that this same trail is also used by bikers, and we often would encounter bikes making their way along the trail and usually going the other way! We crossed four bridges, some definitely in need of repair. We emerged the forest at the bottom of the hill for the town of Sutri, where there is a Roman amphitheater excavated in the tough rock, and an Etruscan necropolis with dozens of rock-cut tombs. We did take the time to climb up the 300 steps to the center of the town. Visited Chiesa di San Francesco. Gorgeous. The hotel, Agriturismo Montefosco, was so far out of town they actually sent a driver for us. We enjoyed dinner at the hotel, and later relaxed on the porch with a glass of red wine with the wonderful views of the hazelnut groves surrounding the hotel.
16.3 miles, 43,493 steps, 38 floors
Day 9: Sutri to Campagnano di Roma
This was an interesting day for sure. After navigating the side roads from the hotel to the main two-lane road with the minimal of shoulders and crazy Italian drivers driving like they are in a race, we found our way once again on a farmer's road, slicing through two fenced in fields. There were two or three spots difficult to pass as the tractor ruts were full of water from the overnight rain (yes, lucked out again with overnight rain!). We saw the hiker in front of us using the fence as leverage to sneak past the muddy areas and followed suit. We passed by our first golf course of the entire trip, then up a hill to Monterosi (guess what 'monte' is in Italian) where we were able to stop for coffee. We visited Chiesa della Santa Croce, built in the 1600s, the first church pictured below. Not far down the road was Chiesa di San Giuseppe, dated mid-1700s, situated at Piazza Garibaldi.
We made our way through a forest trail, along fields and fields of poppies, when we caught our first glimpse of the gorgeous town of Campagnano di Roma, way up a hill. After an arduous climb - like the steepest we had seen so far (at least it wasn't too long), we found ourselves in the old part of the city. Eventually we navigated to the main square, where we enjoyed two spritzes along with a free snack. The staff recognized we were walking the Via Francigena, and gave us two 'medals'.
As we came into town we saw this car, a Fiat Grissly, noting that’s a cool looking car. Then there was a bunch of trucks and they were setting up stuff. We figured it was for a festival or something. Then as we were sitting enjoying our drinks we realize they are shooting a commercial for the car! We were out of shot so they didn’t move us. Then we chatted with the pineapple lady for a bit. (multiple people would walk through the scene, including a woman holding a pineapple ... LOL) It made our day.
Once we checked into our hotel, Ristorante Albergo Benigni, we wandered around the newer part of the town, and eventually met up with PeterBuus and his two daughters, who had joined him for the final two days of his trek. We watched Gladiator, as this is the area where Maximus Decimus Meridius lived and spent a lot of time in arenas, including the one we saw in Sutri. Not sure I made it to the end of the movie.
14.4 miles, 37,604 steps, 19 floors
Day 10: Campagnano di Roma to La Sorta
After chatting with PeterBuus and his daughters at breakfast (we didn't even know he was staying there!), we set out for La Sorta. After a nice gentle walk along city streets, we ended going up a hill (imagine that) to Formella, a quaint medieval village, where again, we ran into PeterBuus and his daughters having coffee and a snack.
We exited the town to a lovely trail along color fields of yellow flowers and poppies. We then entered an archeological park as the area is famously situated on the grounds of the ancient Etruscan city of Veii, with signs and markers about what was found in the area, but you really couldn't see anything. Up and down around several fields of poppies, until a final climb into Isola Farnese. We stopped for a small bite and a beer (I believe it actually helps with the aches and pains LOL), never fully confident we could actually stand up again. The last 1.7 miles was in a light drizzle, not too bad since we have escaped the rain so far. We found our hotel, Resort la Rocchetta, tucked away in a residential area, just behind the Tunisian Embassy.
We headed out to have a drink and wait for the local restaraunt to open, when it started POURING. We decided to count our blessings that we weren't walking in the downpour, and that bar sandwiches and chips would have to do, once again.
15.8 miles, 42,156 steps, 58 floors
Day 11: La Sorta to Rome
Well, the rain didn't do any favors to my boots, which were left out on the patio 'to dry out' the night before. Good thing I had a second pair of walking shoes. We navigated about 1.5 miles on the four-lane suburban streets of northern Rome, where the sidewalk randomly switches sides. Eventually we entered Veio Regional Natural Park, set in a valley with beautiful fields and a small creek. It was crazy to think we were about 7 miles from The Vatican and walking in a field.
Much like other parts of the trail, we were mostly walking in the ruts from tractors, when we ran in to the first batch of mud, with no real way to get around it. The entire field was wet, and on the edge of the field thick brush with thorny shrubs. We made our way gingerly along the side, and I ended up with a little mud on my shoes, whereas Tim did quite well throwing larger branches out in front of him to walk on. Whew we thought we made it. That's when we hit the second, much larger patch of mud, this time I sank down a few times. Oh well, it's the last day. Tim patiently made his way using the same technique and emerged pretty clear of mud, where I had another pair of shoes I'd be using for the last time.
We emerged from the muddy fields to the outer edges of Rome, and once again, met up with PeterBuus and his daughters. Yes, again and we finally snapped a selfie. We stopped a bit later at a coffee shop for a snack, and then continued throughout the city streets of Rome, finally entering a park, where we climbed up to an overlook of Rome with the Vatican in sight. Wow what a view and a feeling! You have to EARN that view!
One more push through the park, where we lost the trail for a bit, then a selfie in front of the Rome Via Francigena guy, and then down. Down and down and down a horrible cobblestone trail, with a total of seven switchbacks. We were on the last leg, and once we hit the Via della Giuliana we knew we were close. We entered St. Peter's square from the side, where Pilgrims get some preferential treatment, but everyone still has to go through security. Kind of anti-climactic compared to the final walk into the square in Santiago. But we made it! We got our testimoniums, wandered around St. Peter's, saw the Pietra, soaking it all in. Time to celebrate!
After resting and enjoying the BEST Caprese ever, we still had another 1.8 miles or so to our hotel, Villa Maria Rosa Molas. We took at least two breaks to get there, with a spritz at each to soothe the feet. Along the way we stopped at the Basilica di S. Crisogono, one of the oldest basilicas in Rome, built in the 4th century. Kind of puts things into perspective, for sure.
16.3 miles, 39,561 steps, 32 floors
There were many times on this walk I thought I wouldn't make it. Pain in places you never knew you had muscles. But never underestimate the power of prayer and a good walking partner. Would I do it again? Maybe...or maybe a different one. Hmmmmm. Next, we enjoy two days in Rome.
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