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| Enjoying a Spritz Overlooking the Piazza del Campo |
We always try to learn everything we can about the places we visit. For this trip, our focus was on Venice and Florence, which is exactly how I stumbled upon Siena. I found a great Rick Steve's feature on the town, and that's when I knew we had to add Siena to our itinerary.
After a quick train ride from Florence (honestly I love the trains in Italy!), we made our way to our hotel, the Hotel Villa Elda, less than a mile from the train station. I thought, we'll just walk. Well, the train station is at the bottom of the bottom of a steep valley, while the hotel is near the top. After exiting the train station, you enter a mall, with a series of escalators - four or five I believe. After about 10 minutes of walking on fairly flat streets, you then start another climb. Not too bad, but this was not part of the 'walk' and we were with our luggage. Fun.
After dropping off our bags and cooling off, we set off for the town to visit the highlights. Oh man, I should have scheduled more than one day!
Our first stop was the Basilica Cateriniana San Domenico, a striking Gothic cathedral, built in the 13th century. It is renowned for its association with St. Catherine of Siena, the patron saint of Italy. The basilica houses a frescoed chapel displaying relics of St. Catherine, including her head and finger on a marble altar from 1469. More on that once we visit Rome!
Next, we headed through the winding streets of Siena, stopping for lunch at Du' Cosa da Berna, a place recommended by the hotel receptionist (always ask the locals!).
We then took off for the Siena Cathedral, also known as the Duomo (yes, just like Florence - it's the Italian word for Cathedral). The Siena Duomo is a 13th-century marvel renowned for its striking facade with symbolic black and white marble stripes. It's almost impossible to comprehend. As we approached the back side, our first stop was the Bapistry, most famous for its hexagonal baptismal font, featuring bronze panels sculpted by Renaissance masters including Donatello (the artist not the turtle).
Next, a quick stop in the Crypt, only recently discovered. Back in 1999, the Opera della Metropolitana hired a team to restore the spaces around the San Giovannino and San Gennaro Oratory. When they expanded the project to dig under the Cathedral's choir section, they stumbled upon something totally unexpected: a hidden room filled with incredible paintings from the late 1200s. The colors are so vibrant, and they've been hidden for centuries!
After exiting the Crypt, we climbed the hill and walked around to the Piazza. The stunning facade of the cathedral is just jaw-dropping. The cathedral has such a rich history, originally built to replace a church dedicated to Mary on a site that was once a temple for the worship of Minerva (Christian churches were often built on top of or directly converted from pagan temples and sacred sites). As mentioned in the Rick Steves video, Siena and Florence engaged in a fierce architectural rivalry fueled by city-state pride. Intent on outdoing the other's grand Duomo, Siena attempted to build the largest cathedral in the world, but the outbreak of the Black Death permanently halted their ambitions. Had it been completed, Siena's Duomo would have dwarfed Florence’s. There is one photo below with the unfinished extension.
The intricate floor tells tales through secret symbols and religious narratives, showcasing figures from ancient Greek prophets to biblical stories like Moses' life. Described by Renaissance master Giorgio Vasari as the "largest and most magnificent" floor ever created, a large percentage of it is covered to protect it from foot traffic for most of the year, and uncovered for public viewing during two specific periods each year.
The last room we visited in the Duomo was the Piccolomini Library, a brilliantly preserved Renaissance treasure. Built in 1492 by Cardinal Francesco Todeschini Piccolomini (later Pope Pius III) to honor his uncle, Pope Pius II, it houses rare illuminated manuscripts.
Our next stop was the Piazza del Campo, also known as 'Il Campo', a medieval square in Siena that has been the city's social center since the 12th century. The paving of the square is divided into nine sectors representing the ruling Consiglio dei Nove (the Rule of the Nine, the governing body of Siena in the 1400's). It is a popular gathering place for locals and visitors, with cafes around its perimeter offering great spots for coffee and aperitivi. The Palio di Siena, a historic, hyper-intense bareback horse race, is held in this square twice a year. This is also where we finally saw a sign for the Via Francigena!
After returning to our hotel, we enjoyed an amazing view of the Duomo and sunset while sipping wine on the rooftop.
Our next stop, San Quirico d'Orcia, where we will begin our walk.
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